This is an intrepid anthology. Even as Asian indigenous textile makers try out a multiplicity of strategies to find a way for their art/craft to survive in the global world, the contributors to this volume explore new frameworks to describe their ingenuity. 'Fashionalization', 'modernization', 'trivialization', '(de)commodification', 'heritagization', all typify trajectories of reinvention, external mediation and experimentation. The usually unseen struggles of indigenous textile producers deserve more spokespeople like these.

- Sandra Niessen, Anthropologist,

Fashionable Traditions offers significant new insights into the relationship between Asian indigenous textile cultures and their assimilation into the world of global consumption, from heritage industries to fashion. The authors bring anthropological and historical perspectives that are based on original and extensive field research. The volume adds considerably to our understanding of the multiple roles of handmade textiles in a modern world.

- Ruth Barnes, Thomas Jaffe Curator of Indo-Pacific Art, Yale University Art Gallery,

<p>For anyone interested in the changes taking place where hand-made textiles are produced, this book offers a range of insights into the processes at work. The authors have all produced intelligent, thoughtful studies that are well worth reading. This book makes a valuable contribution to knowledge about the interplay between "tradition" and "fashion" in textile production in the modern world.</p>

Southeast Asian Studies

Textiles play a decisive role in history: attire not only indicates status, gender, ethnicity, and religion but illustrates how such boundaries are continuously being negotiated, shifted, and recreated. Fashionable Traditions captures the complex reality of Asian handmade textile production and consumption. From traditionalist discourse and cultural authenticity to fashion and market trends, the contributors to this collection demonstrate the multilayered influence of often contradictory forces. In-depth, ethnographic case studies reveal the entangled relationships between local artisans, external interventions, and consumers, while acknowledging the broader frameworks in which such relationships are situated. Together these stories offer a vivid account of the socio-economic, political, and cultural dynamics in various parts of Asia and emphasize that fashion is neither a Western prerogative nor do its roots reside solely in the West.

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Fashionable Traditions captures the complex reality of Asian, handmade textile production and consumption. Contributors to this collection reveal the entangled relationships between local artisans, external interventions, and consumers to offer a vivid account of the socio-economic, political, and cultural dynamics of Asian fashion.

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List of Figures and TablesPrefaceIntroduction: Asian Handmade Textiles as Fashionable TraditionsAyami NakataniPart 1: Fashion Dynamics in TraditionChapter 1Ikat Patterns in Flores, Indonesia, and the Global Fashion TrajectoryWillemijn de JongChapter 2“New Style” of Ethnic Clothing: Dress between Tradition and Fashion among the Hmong in Yunnan, ChinaChie MiyawakiChapter 3The Pashmina Shawl: Continuity and Transformation from Ladakh to KashmirMonisha AhmedPart 2: Politics of Heritage and BeyondChapter 4Listing Cultures: Politics of Boundaries and Heritagization of Handwoven Textiles in IndonesiaAyami NakataniChapter 5Between Culture and Technology: “Theme” Saris and the Graphic Representation of Heritage in Tamil Nadu, IndiaAarti KawlraChapter 6“Heritagization” as a Double-edged Sword: The Dilemma of Nishijin Silk Weaving in Kyoto, JapanOkpyo MoonChapter 7Inheriting Weaving Knowledge in Depopulated Communities: Conservation of Wisteria Fiber Textiles in Kyoto, JapanMiwa KanetaniPart 3: Contested Valorization and the Role of MediatorsChapter 8Branding Tsumugi Kimono in Japan: Kimono Magazines as Mediators between Consumers and the “Mingei” MovementSeiko SugimotoChapter 9“Crafts” to “Art”: A Trajectory of Aboriginal Women’s Weavings in Arnhem Land, AustraliaSachiko KubotaChapter 10Translocal Ikat in Contemporary Bali, Indonesia: Imagining Heritage, Imagining Modernities in Ikat Production and MarketingSusan RodgersPart 4: Ambivalent Encounters with Global ConsumersChapter 11Embroidering Development: The Mutwa and Rann Utsav in Kutch, IndiaMichele A. HardyChapter 12Strategic Choices of Techniques: Dyed and Printed Textiles for Goddess Rituals in Gujarat, Western IndiaYoko UebaChapter 13 Patchworking in Tradition: The Trends of Fashionable Carpets from TurkeyUlara TamuraChapter 14What Do Handwoven Textiles Do? Constellation of Things and the Primal History among Non-Weaving People in Flores, Eastern IndonesiaEriko Aoki IndexAbout the Contributors

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