A _FINANCIAL TIMES _BOOK OF THE YEAR 2024 A Waterstones Best History Book of 2024 Pick 'KUPER IS A SHREWD OBSERVER [IN] THIS ENTERTAINING MIX OF MEMOIR AND ANTHROPOLOGY' _THE SUNDAY TIMES_ FROM THE BESTSELLING AUTHOR OF _CHUMS _COMES AN EXPLORER'S TALE OF A NAÏF GETTING TO UNDERSTAND A COMPLEX, GLITTERING, BEAUTIFUL AND OFTEN CRUEL CITY. Simon Kuper has experienced Paris both as a human being and as a journalist. He has grown middle-aged there, eaten the croissants, taken his children to countless football matches on freezing Saturday mornings in the city's notorious _banlieues,_ and in 2015 lived through two terrorist attacks on his family's neighbourhood. Over two decades of becoming something of a cantankerous Parisian himself, Kuper has watched the city change. This century, Paris has globalised, gentrified, and been shocked into realising its role as the crucible of civilisational conflict. Sometimes it's a multicultural paradise, and sometimes it isn't. This decade, Parisians have lived through a sequence of shocks: terrorist attacks, record floods and heatwaves, the burning of Notre Dame, the storming of the city by _gilets jaunes_, and the pandemic. Now, as the Olympics come to town, France is busy executing the 'Grand Paris' project: the most serious attempt yet to knit together the bejewelled city with its neglected suburbs. This is a captivating memoir of today's Paris without the clichés.